If was found that due to the now elevated height of the padded rail (2 1/2" rise due to camera track) that when the poker table top is placed upon a standard height table (29" high) it felt a bit odd. Because of the now awkward feel of the table we decided to purchase a 6' long folding table from Home Depot and cut down the legs. Yes we wrecked a perfectly good table.
We choose to NOT get a table that also folded in half as this would, by mutual agreement, make the table less stable when in use. As the poker table top needs to be transported it is not a big deal to transport the 6' table with it.
So, as the table top is now 2.5 inches higher - we cut the table legs down 1.25" to "split the difference". It was felt that we could always cut the legs again if needed. As the legs are at an angle near the floor we made a small jig to set the length needed and then transferred this to the other legs. A quick drimel tooling and the job was done.
We wanted to attach the poker table top to this new "dedicated" folding table and the first thought was a make simple L bracket. This meant drilling into the side of the table and through the tables support frame. Ultimately we fabricated these:
Simple flat stock metal bent into shape and welded to a cut down hinge, again from Home Depot. (Note: We are not welders!) Now we can insert the end between the portable table plastic top and the support frame, pivot the hinge to place the bracket around the portable tables edge/frame, and using a hex screw (Budget Bolt) attached to the poker table top.
These attachment points, which there are 4, where originally meant for hanging the poker table top on the wall. You can see on unused bolting location closer to the end of the table (away from the bracket). These where part of the orginal poker table build.
The last thing we did was to replace the hex key bolts with low profile knobs so that we did not need the allen wrench during assembly. (no shown) The brackets and bolting stores away in the box when not in use.